How to Lube Mechanical Keyboard Switches: A Step-by-Step Guide for Beginners

If you have recently picked up a mechanical keyboard or gone down the route of building your own, you have probably come across the term “lubing switches” in forum threads, YouTube comments, or Reddit posts. It sounds technical, perhaps even intimidating, but it is one of the most satisfying and impactful modifications you can make to a keyboard. Done properly, lubing transforms a scratchy, inconsistent typing experience into something genuinely smooth and pleasant — the kind of thing you find yourself typing on just for the sake of it.

This guide is written for beginners in the UK who want to understand what switch lubing actually involves, what products to buy (and where to find them without paying extortionate international shipping fees), and how to do the job properly from start to finish.

What Does Lubing Switches Actually Do?

Mechanical switches are made up of several small plastic and metal components that move against each other with every keypress. Over time — and even straight out of the box — this contact between parts creates friction. That friction is what gives many budget or stock switches their characteristic scratchiness or rattle.

Applying lubricant to the contact surfaces reduces that friction significantly. The result depends on the switch type, but generally you can expect:

• A smoother, quieter keystroke from top to bottom
• Reduced stem wobble and side-to-side rattle
• A more consistent feel across all keys on the board
• A deeper, more satisfying sound profile

It is worth noting that lubing is not about making switches faster or improving your typing speed in any measurable way. It is purely about feel and sound. That said, once you have used a properly lubed keyboard, going back to an unlubed one feels noticeably worse.

Understanding Switch Types Before You Start

Not all switches are lubed the same way, and the approach changes depending on what type you are working with. The three main categories are linear, tactile, and clicky.

Linear Switches

Linear switches move straight down without any tactile bump or audible click. Popular examples include the Gateron Yellow, Cherry MX Red, and Gateron Oil King. These are the easiest to lube because you can apply lubricant fairly generously without worrying about dampening a tactile event. They are also the most commonly recommended starting point for beginners learning to lube.

Tactile Switches

Tactile switches have a noticeable bump partway through the keystroke — the point at which the switch registers. Examples include the Boba U4, Gateron Brown, and the highly regarded Holy Pandas. When lubing tactiles, you must avoid applying lubricant to the legs of the stem (the two small protruding pieces that create the bump). Lube on those legs will reduce or eliminate the tactile feedback, which defeats the purpose of using a tactile switch in the first place.

Clicky Switches

Clicky switches — Cherry MX Blues, Kailh Box Whites, and similar — are generally not recommended for lubing, at least not for beginners. The click mechanism is delicate and easy to ruin with lubricant. Most experienced keyboard enthusiasts leave clicky switches completely unlubed or use only a very thin application on the housing rails. If you are a beginner, skip lubing your clicky switches entirely for now.

What You Will Need

Before you sit down to lube a set of switches, you need the right tools and materials. Fortunately, the total outlay is fairly modest, and most of these items are reusable across multiple projects.

Lubricant

This is the most important variable, and it is also where beginners tend to get confused. There are two main types of lubricant used in the hobby: oil-based and grease-based. For switch lubing, you want a grease-based lubricant. The two most widely recommended options are:

• Krytox 205g0 — The gold standard for linear switches. Thick, long-lasting, and widely available. Expect to pay around £10–£15 for a small 5ml jar from UK hobby retailers like Prototypist or KeebsForAll.
• Tribosys 3203 or 3204 — Thinner consistency than Krytox 205g0. Better suited to tactile switches where you want a lighter application. Available from similar UK-based stores at a comparable price point.

A common mistake is buying the wrong viscosity. Thicker lubricants applied too heavily will make switches feel sluggish and mushy. When in doubt, start thin and build up.

Brushes

You need small, fine-tipped brushes to apply the lubricant precisely. A set of size 0 or size 00 artist brushes works perfectly. You can pick these up from any art supply shop — Hobbycraft stores across the UK sell them for a pound or two per brush. Alternatively, Amazon UK sells multipacks for under £5. Buy a few spares; they wear out and get clogged with lubricant over time.

A Switch Opener

To lube switches, you need to open them up and access the internal components. A dedicated switch opener is a small plastic or metal tool that presses in the clips on the sides of the switch housing simultaneously. They cost around £5–£10 and are available from most UK keyboard hobby shops. You can technically use a flat-head screwdriver, but a proper opener is much faster when you are processing a full set of 60 to 100 switches.

A Switch Film (Optional but Recommended)

Switch films are thin plastic or foam pads that sit between the top and bottom housing of a switch. They reduce wobble between the two halves and can further improve sound. They are not strictly necessary for lubing, but many people apply them at the same time since the switch is already open. A pack of 110 films typically costs around £5–£8.

A Lube Station or Tray

A lube station is a small holder that keeps your switch stems upright while you apply lubricant, making the process much less fiddly. They cost roughly £8–£15 from UK keyboard retailers. A clean piece of foam or even an ice cube tray works as a budget alternative.

How to Open a Mechanical Switch

Most five-pin and three-pin switches open in the same way. Place the switch on a flat surface with the top housing facing up. Position your switch opener so its arms align with the two clips on the north and south sides of the switch housing. Press down firmly and evenly. The top housing will pop off cleanly.

Inside you will find four components:

• The top housing — the upper shell you just removed
• The stem — the cross-shaped piece that moves up and down with each keypress
• The spring — the coiled metal spring that provides resistance and return force
• The bottom housing — the lower shell containing the metal contact leaf

Lay these out on a clean surface. Do not mix up components from different switches if you are processing a batch, as stems and springs from different switch types are not always interchangeable.

The Lubing Process, Step by Step

Step 1: Prepare Your Work Area

Find a well-lit, clean surface. Lubricant is difficult to see in poor lighting, and you will be working with very small amounts. A white piece of paper or a silicone mat works well. Have your lubricant, brushes, switch opener, and a container for finished switches within easy reach.

Step 2: Dip and Wipe Your Brush

Open your lubricant jar and dip the tip of your brush in. The amount you pick up matters enormously. Dip the brush in, then wipe most of it off on the inside edge of the jar. You want a very thin, almost invisible coat on the brush — not a blob. This is the single most common mistake beginners make. Too much lubricant makes switches feel dead and over-dampened. Less is genuinely more here.

Step 3: Lube the Bottom Housing

Hold the bottom housing in your non-dominant hand. Apply a thin, even coat to the two rails inside the housing — these are the smooth vertical channels that the stem legs slide along. A single light brushstroke on each rail is usually sufficient. You can also apply a thin coat to the flat floor of the housing where the stem sits.

Do not apply lubricant to the metal contact leaf (the small metal piece inside the housing). Lubricant here can cause inconsistent or failed key registrations.

Step 4: Lube the Stem

This is the most time-consuming part. Pick up the stem by the cross-shaped post (the part that accepts your keycap). You need to lube the four sides of the stem legs — the smooth, flat surfaces that contact the housing rails. Apply a thin, even coat to each of these four surfaces.

If you are lubing a linear switch, you can also lightly lube the inside of the stem tube (the hollow cylinder that the spring sits in) and the top of the stem.

If you are lubing a tactile switch, do not touch the stem legs with any lubricant. Only lube the sides of the stem body, well away from the tactile legs.

Step 5: Lube the Spring (Optional)

Springs can develop a pinging or twanging sound, particularly in a quiet room. You can address this by lube-bagging your springs — placing all the springs into a small zip-lock bag, adding a tiny amount of lubricant (ideally a thinner oil like Krytox 105 rather than the grease you use on housings), sealing the bag, and shaking it until each spring is evenly coated. This takes about 30 seconds for a full set of springs and makes a noticeable difference to acoustics.

Step 6: Lube the Top Housing

Apply a light coat to the inner rails of the top housing — the channels that correspond to those in the bottom housing. This step is optional but recommended for the smoothest possible result.

Step 7: Reassemble the Switch

Place the spring into the bottom housing. Seat the stem on top of the spring, making sure the legs align with the housing rails. Press the top housing down until you hear it click into place. The switch should now move smoothly and return cleanly with no wobble or resistance.

If you are using switch films, lay one on the rim of the bottom housing before pressing the top housing down. The film should sit flush with no overhang.

How Long Does It Take?

For a full 65% keyboard with around 68 switches,
the first attempt usually takes between two and four hours, depending on how organised your workspace is and whether you are filming the switches as well. Once you get into a rhythm, the process becomes much faster. Experienced enthusiasts can often finish the same number in under two hours, but beginners should not rush.

A sensible pace is to work in batches of 10 to 20 switches. This helps you stay consistent and gives you a chance to test a few before committing to the entire board. If the first batch feels too sluggish or too scratchy, you can adjust the amount of lubricant before moving on.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

The most common mistake is over-lubing. Too much lubricant can make switches feel mushy, slow the return, and dull the sound more than intended. It is always better to start with less and add slightly more if needed.

Another mistake is lubing parts that should be left alone. On tactile switches, avoid brushing lubricant on the tactile legs unless you specifically want to reduce the bump. For clicky switches, lubrication is generally not recommended because it can interfere with the click mechanism and change the switch character completely.

It is also worth checking that every top housing is clipped in fully during reassembly. A housing that is not seated properly can cause wobble, inconsistent feel, or a switch that does not register correctly.

Is Lubing Worth It?

For most mechanical keyboard users, yes. A properly lubed switch usually feels smoother, sounds deeper and cleaner, and can make even a modest keyboard feel far more refined. Linear switches benefit the most, while tactile switches can also improve noticeably when lubed with care.

That said, lubing is a time investment. If you enjoy tinkering and want to get the best possible feel from your keyboard, it is one of the most rewarding modifications you can do. If you prefer convenience, pre-lubed switches may be a better option.

Final Thoughts

Lubing mechanical keyboard switches is a simple but precise process that rewards patience. With the right tools, a light touch, and a bit of practice, even a beginner can transform the sound and feel of a keyboard. Take your time, test your work as you go, and focus on consistency. Once you finish your first board, you will understand why switch lubing has become such a popular part of the keyboard hobby.